New Client? View & download out a new client information sheet  here. 

Boarding a pet? View & download a boarding information sheet  here.

Animal Medical Center FAQ
 
Bird Care
Birthing puppies/kittens - video
Boarding - Everything you need or want to know!
Critical Care Unit
            Visiting Hours
            Call backs, and other info
Dental Health
           Really a big deal?
           Periodontal Disease
           Why is it important to have my pet's teeth cleaned?
           How to Brush Teeth
           Dental Cleaning
           Is my pet too old?
          How to Check
          Watch a video about dentals
Emergencies
Exotics
Heartworm Disease – Dogs and Cats
Hygiene
            Bathing Pets
            Cleaning Pets’ Ears
            Cleaning Pets’ Eyes
Lost Pets: What to do?
             How to keep your pet from getting lost.
Medical Questions/Concerns
            Benadryl
            Diarrhea
            Dog Licking
            Dog Scooting
            Eating Grass
            Heat Cycles
            Hit by Car
            Litter Box Problems
            Seizures
            Tylenol/Over the Counter Meds
Nutrition
Online Pet Pharmacies
Orphaned Animal Care
            Bird
            Puppies/Kittens
Parasites
            Fleas
            Heartworms
            Lice
           Ticks
            Worms
Pets, Worms, and Children
Poison – What to do?
Puppy/Kitten Care
Senior Pet Care
Spay/Neuter
Vaccinations
            For Dogs
            For Cats


BOARDING - Everything you need or want to know about boarding at AMC!

BOARDING FAQS
 
Q: How many times a day do the dogs get taken out to potty during their stay at AMC?

A: The dogs are taken out four times a day by our Pet Care Specialists: twice in the morning and twice in the evening. Cats do not get taken outside, but they are allowed to get out of their condos [one at a time] and play while we are cleaning their area.
 
Q: Where do my dogs go out to use the bathroom during their stay at AMC?

A: We have an outdoor enclosure with 8 safely fenced-in runs. They are [measurements???] and your dog has plenty of room to play and exercise. There are water bowls provided at all times. Your pets are allowed as much time outside as the weather permits. Usually they can play and exercise for 15-30 minutes per outing. Dogs boarding together can be also be exercised together in the same outside run.


Q: What if my puppy has a potty accident in their boarding area?

A: Your pet's area will be cleaned and disinfected twice a day. Our Pet Care Specialists are proud to show our clients how clean our boarding facility stays. If your pet has an accident, he or she will be taken outside or moved to another location while their area is being cleaned. Dogs who board more than one night will receive a complimentary bath on the day they are scheduled to be picked up.

Q: Can I bring my pet's personal belongings to stay with them while they board?

A: Yes, you can bring your pet's bed, blanket, toys or food to leave with them while they stay with us. We only ask that you put your pet's name on his or her belongings so that if the items are washed they can be returned to the right pet. Food will be placed in a bin with your pet's name on it. If you do not wish to bring anything with your pet, that is perfectly fine also. AMC is stocked with blankets, toys, bowls, and food that will be available for your pet upon request. [ Please note that AMC is not responsible for any lost items.]

 
Q: My pet has special needs. Will he or she be still be able to board?

A: Of course! Animal Medical Center is an AAHA certified pet hospital. There are veterinarians, technicians and/or vet assistants here 24/7. If your pet needs special attention or has medication that needs to be given daily, AMC is the perfect place to board your pet. Our Pet Care Specialists are also trained to keep a close eye on all pets that board with us. They make daily notes of your pet(s) appetite, water intake, urination and bowel movements. If you have any questions, a technician will be glad to speak with you about medications or special needs.
 
Q: What are the different boarding areas available?
 
A: We have cages, runs, suites and cat condos available. Please view our site pictures or call to schedule a tour of our facility.
 
 
Q: My pet has never been boarded before, will they be OK?

A: There is a first time for everything, and most first time boarders do fine once they get used to the new place. AMC offers detailed tours of our boarding facilities for you and your pet so you know exactly where he or she will be staying. You may even meet a few of the people who will be taking care of your pet while you are away. We are committed to caring for each and every pet as if they were our own. Sometimes a little extra TLC is just the thing needed for nervous first-timers.

Q: If I chose not to bring my pet's food, what will AMC feed them?

A: AMC uses Science Diet Sensitive Stomach to feed our boarders unless your pet is on a special diet. We also have Science Diet Sensitive Stomach "Small Bites" for smaller pets.


Q: I have multiple pets. Will they be able to stay together?
 
A:Sure, as long as they get along well. There is one exception, though: Cats may board together in their condos and dogs may board together in their areas; but cats and dogs may not board together at all.
 
(Note: If pets do not get along during meal times, they will be separated for a brief period of time until they have both finished eating.)
 
Q: Do I need to make a reservation?
 
A:Boarding reservations are appreciated but not required. If you need to board your pet but have not made a reservation, you may call first to see what we have available or stop by and speak with one of our Client Services staff members.
 
(Note: Holidays tend to be our most popular boarding time, reservations are usually booked weeks in advance.)
 
Q: Everyone is going green! What does AMC do to help the environment?
 
A:AMC uses laminated paper and dry erase markers to fill out our new client forms instead of using paper. We then transfer the information to our computer system. We also conserve energy by turning overhead lights off and using natural light from our windows for twice a day to give our CCU and boarding pets time to rest and relax. We are currently utilizing an online program called Vetstreet which allows us to go paperless for pet reminders. If you have not given AMC your email address, please do so today so that you too can begin to enjoy the benefits of this convenient program.
 
If you have any other questions, please feel free to give us a call at (256) 236-8387.

CRITICAL CARE UNIT
My pet was admitted to the CCU, may I visit?
-          Absolutely!  We have set visiting hours for our patients in the Critical Care Unit.  Please call to confirm current visiting times:  256-236-8387

My pet is in CCU, but I have not heard from anyone.
-          Please bear with us as we assess and treat each pet in the Critical Care Unit.  Once our doctors and staff have finished all the treatment plans for the pets in CCU, someone will give you a call.
What does it mean that my pet is in the Critical Care Unit?
-          While an emergency is unfolding, or throughout recovery from a serious illness or accident, ongoing diagnostic and therapeutic care and constant monitoring of your pet’s condition may be required. Just as in human hospitals, our facility has 24-hour supervision of critically ill pets.
-          This facility is equipped to provide oxygen therapy, cardiac monitoring, blood transfusions, and nutritional support. This facility also has advanced diagnostic capabilities onsite, such as ultrasound and echocardiography. 

DENTAL HEALTH

Is Dental Health really a big deal?
 
-          Dental disease is a HUGE deal. Periodontal (gum) disease is the number one diagnosed problem in dogs and cats. By the age of just two, 80% of dogs and 70% of cats have some form of periodontal disease. In addition, 10% of dogs have a broken tooth with pulp (nerve or root canal) exposure. This is extremely painful until the nerve dies, at which point the tooth becomes infected! Infectious oral diseases affecting the gums and root canals create systemic bacteremia (bacteria in the blood stream, which can infect other parts of the body). Periodontal inflammation and infection have been linked to numerous problems including heart disease, strokes, kidney disease, emphysema, liver disease, osteoporosis, pregnancy problems, and diabetes. Therefore, oral infectious diseases are known as “the silent killer.”

In addition to systemic effects, oral disease can also cause inflammation to the eye, resulting in blindness. Furthermore, jaw bone loss from chronic infection can lead to a jaw fracture known as a pathologic fracture, and these have a very hard time healing. Finally, infectious oral disease can result in osteomyelitis (an area of dead, infected bone), nasal infections, and an increased risk of oral cancer.

Speaking of oral cancer, the oral cavity is the fourth most common place for cancer. Unfortunately, by the time that most are discovered, they are too advanced for therapy. Early treatment is necessary for cure. That’s why you, the pet owner, need to check your pet for oral growths on a regular basis. Anything suspicious should be shown to our veterinarian promptly.

In cats, a very common problem is feline tooth resorption lesions, which are caused by normal cells called odontoclasts eating away at the cat’s own teeth. Approximately half of cats over 6 years of age have at least one. They are similar to cavities in that once they are advanced, they are VERY painful and can become infected. They are first seen as small red areas along the gum line.

Other oral problems include bacterial cavities, painful orthodontic problems, dead teeth (which are commonly discolored), and worn teeth. Almost every pet has some form of painful or infectious oral disease that needs treatment. Unfortunately, there are few to no obvious clinical signs. (See below, what are the warning signs of periodontal disease?) Therefore, be proactive and ask our veterinarian for a complete oral exam, and perform regular monitoring at home.
 
Periodontal Disease
 
-           Periodontal disease is defined as the destruction of tooth attachment (periodontal ligament and jaw bone) caused by bacteria. It begins when bacteria form on teeth in a substance called plaque. If plaque is not removed immediately, two things occur. First, the plaque is calcified by the minerals in saliva to become calculus (or tartar). This is the brown substance on teeth that many people mistakenly equate with periodontal disease, but the truth is that calculus does not result in periodontal disease.

The other thing that occurs with chronic plaque formation is that it will start to move under the gumline. Once the plaque gets under the gum, it starts causing inflammation, which is called gingivitis. Gingivitis is the initial, reversible form of periodontal disease. If this inflammation is not controlled, the bacteria within the gingiva change to a more virulent type. These more virulent species create more severe inflammation. Eventually, the body responds to this inflammation. Part of this response is bony destruction, which continues until the tooth is lost. However, in most cases periodontal disease causes problems long before this happens. (See above, “Is dental disease really a big deal?”)
 
Warning Signs
 
-          Unfortunately, there are no obvious outward signs of periodontal disease until it is VERY advanced. The earliest sign is inflammation (redness or swelling) of the gums. This is generally accompanied by buildup of plaque and calculus on the teeth, but unless you are looking for these changes (See above, “Is dental disease really a big deal?”), they are not noticeable.

As periodontal disease progresses, the infection will worsen. The next signs within the mouth are receding gums or loose teeth. This increased infection may result in bad breath or blood on chew toys; however, this should NOT be relied upon for diagnosis. If your pet has bad breath or you see blood on toys, it is almost a sure sign of advanced periodontal disease requiring a trip to the veterinarian.

Late signs of periodontal disease include nasal discharge (blood or pus), eye problems, facial swelling or a jaw fracture.
 
Why is it important to have my pet's teeth cleaned?
 
-           There are two main reasons for routine cleanings. First, they help prevent periodontal disease. Second, and possibly more importantly, a cleaning allows for a complete oral examination. Only with general anesthesia can most oral health problems be noted. This includes screening for oral cancer, broken teeth, cavities, and in cats, tooth resorption. Finally, general anesthesia is required for periodontal probing, which is the method of diagnosis of periodontal pockets.
How to Brush Your Pet's Teeth
 
-           Start with a soft toothbrush and veterinary toothpaste. The malt flavor from Virbac appears to be the favorite of our dog and cat patients. Do not use human toothpaste, as it contains detergents that may cause stomach upset. Also, I do not recommend the fingertip brushes for two reasons. First, the bristles are not very effective at cleaning. Second, they put the pet owner’s finger at risk for a bite, from even the most placid animal.

Go slowly and be very positive, using food treats if necessary. Place the brush at a 45-degree angle to the gum line. Brush in a circular motion, with a firm stroke away from the tooth. Try to reach all tooth surfaces, but concentrate on the outside surface.

The hardest part is getting started. It’s best to start young, because the earlier you introduce brushing, the easier it will be for your pet to accept it. We recommend handling your pet’s mouth from the time you bring him home. For puppies and kittens, introduce the brush at around 6-7 months. Be consistent; animals like routines, so if you make it a habit it will be easier on both of you.

My dog eats hard food. Isn’t that like brushing his teeth?
 
-          NO! This is a myth, which came about from the surface of the teeth being slightly cleaner in pets fed dry food. Typical dry food does not protect against periodontal disease. This relates to the root cause of periodontal disease, which is subgingival plaque (plaque below the gumline). Supragingival (above the gumline) plaque accumulates and causes local changes in the gum tissue that allow attachment and growth of subgingival bacteria, however after this has occurred; supragingival plaque has little to no effect on periodontal disease. Traditional dry foods break apart at the tip of the tooth and have little to no dental benefit.

There are specially formulated and processed dental foods that effectively clean a pet’s teeth as the pet chews and are an excellent adjunct to routine tooth brushing.
 
Dental Cleaning
 
-           The first step is to place the patient under general anesthesia. Anesthesia-free dentistry is not recommended, and is even illegal in some states. Don’t be fooled by “sedation” dentistry. In our opinion, sedation dentistry can be more dangerous than general anesthesia for two main reasons. First, in sedation dentistry (or any other anesthesia-free dentistry), the trachea (windpipe), and therefore the lungs, are not protected from the particles generated during a dental cleaning. These particles are full of bacteria and, if inhaled, can result in pneumonia.

The other difference between anesthesia and sedation is the length of effect. Most practices today employ relatively short-acting agents to put the patient under anesthesia, and then a gas to keep the patient under anesthesia. If a problem occurs under anesthesia, the veterinarian can turn off the gas and the patient will recover quickly. But under sedation, the effects generally do not go away until the drug is cleared by the system, which can take too long. General anesthesia is very safe today, thanks to advances in anesthetic drugs, training and monitoring equipment.

A true dental prophylaxis consists of several steps, some more critical than others. The required steps that must be performed include:

1. Supragingival scaling: This is the removal of the plaque and calculus above the gum line (what you can see).
2. Subgingival scaling: This is the thorough cleaning of the area under the gum line to remove disease-causing bacteria. It is typically performed by hand and is time consuming, but it is the most important step of a dental prophylaxis.
3. Polishing: Scaling slightly roughens the teeth. This promotes plaque and calculus attachment and reduces the lasting effect of the cleaning, so the teeth are polished afterward. There has been some controversy about this in human dentistry, due to the loss of enamel with many cleanings over time. However, in veterinary dentistry, with relatively fewer cleanings in an animal’s life, this is not a concern.
4. Sulcal Lavage: Cleaning and polishing results in debris being caught under the gum line, this must be thoroughly rinsed out.
5. Oral exam, periodontal probing and dental charting: This is a critical and often misunderstood part of the dental prophylaxis. There are teeth that cannot be thoroughly examined in a pet that is awake, when periodontal probing is not possible. With the patient under anesthesia, the mouth is thoroughly and systematically examined, and all findings are noted on a dental chart. Any diseased teeth or tissues are then properly treated.

Why does a dental cleaning have to be done under anesthesia?
-          It is impossible to do a thorough cleaning and definitive oral examination (including periodontal probing) on a pet that is awake. Our veterinarian can provide the appropriate pre-anesthetic protocol and treatment plan to provide your pet with the best care.

Is my pet too old?
-          NEVER. Healthy pets, even when they’re older, handle anesthesia quite well. Age does increase the possibility that the patient will have some degree of organ malfunction, and those with systemic problems will be at an increased risk. Therefore, we require pre-operative testing on all patients over 5 years of age, prior to anesthesia. The important organs include the liver, kidneys, heart, and lungs. Required tests include a complete blood panel, thyroid testing, and urinalysis in all patients.
As a pet owner, what can I do at home to prevent periodontal disease?
-          The gold standard of home care is tooth brushing. To be effective, however, it must be performed at least three times a week; daily brushing is ideal.
 
Another form of home care consists of rinsing with an antiseptic agent. CET® Oral Hygiene Rinse (Virbac) is an excellent antiseptic rinse for veterinary patients. The active agent (chlorhexidine) impregnates the teeth and gums, and its antibacterial effect lasts up to six hours.

It may be challenging for some pet owners to make the commitment to daily tooth brushing for their pets or to teach their pets to tolerate handling of their mouths. When frequent brushing is not practical, feeding an effective dental food provides a convenient solution. There are numerous products touted as “dental” foods or treats. Pet owners must be careful, as these typically only clean the tip of the teeth, not the areas that are necessary for control of periodontal disease. Of the dental foods available, only Hills® Prescription Diet® t/d® is clinically proven to reduce gingivitis, plaque and calculus. A combination of brushing and feeding the right dental food is best for oral disease control.

How to Check
-          Look for anything that appears abnormal. The first sign of periodontal disease is redness of the gums. No matter how minor it seems, if this is present, disease is present. The pet needs veterinary care in order to treat the disease and avoid all the problems associated with it. If periodontal disease is not treated early, advanced signs of disease include swelling of the gums, calculus on the teeth, receding gums, and mobile teeth. Any of these is a sign of advanced periodontal disease, and immediate medical attention is required.

Other things to watch for include swelling or masses, broken or worn teeth, and discoloration of the teeth. Any of these things should also be brought to the attention of a veterinarian right away.
What should a pet chew on?
-          There is a fine line between being too easy to chew up and swallow, and being too hard, possibly damaging the teeth. Many commercial chew toys are far too hard and can break the chewing teeth. There are two guidelines we recommend using:

1. If you cannot make an indentation in it with a fingernail, the treat or toy is too hard.
2. If it would hurt to hit yourself in the knee with it, the treat or toy is too hard.

Pets that are prone to quickly swallowing large pieces of chew toys should be monitored during their use, to avoid an obstruction.
Watch a video about dentals
 
 
EMERGENCIES

Our facility at 719 Quintard Avenue in Anniston, AL is open 24-hours a day for medical emergencies.  If you have an emergency, please call 256-236-8387.
Any of the following situations can be considered an emergency:
-          Difficulty breathing
-          Allergic reactions
-          Ingestion of a foreign object or unknown substance
-          Bleeding
-          Vomiting blood
-          Blood in the feces or urine
-          Swollen, hard abdomen that is painful to the touch
-          Serious wound
-          Suspected broken limb
-          Any injury to the eye
-          Loss of consciousness
-          Seizures
-          Inability to move or sudden weakness
-          Unusual or erratic behavior
-          Signs of extreme pain, such as whining or shaking
-          Straining to urinate (especially a male cat)
-          Labor that does not progress
-          Signs of a heatstroke
 
EXOTICS

Does my non-traditional/exotic pet need yearly exams?
-          Reptiles.Most of our "scaly" pets in captivity will benefit from a yearly exam with the veterinarian. Although there are not any vaccinesthat are given, the visit will always start with a thorough physical exam with a discussion on any weight changes and growth rates. A complete review of the diet, including any changes in appetite, and other husbandry issues are important topics to discuss. The needs of your pet will change as they get older, so a once-a-year visit is a great place to address these issues. This visit is even more important in turtles and tortoises that live outdoors and may be hibernating. Pre- and post-hibernation exams are critical for these animals as they can be at risk for disease during these stressful times.
 
-          Birds.For our feathered friends, vaccines are not routinely necessary unless they are in a breeding situation or aviary. If that's the case, then an onsite exam/visit at least twice a year is the best preventative medicine. But for our birds that are indoors and truly pets, a yearly trip to the veterinarian is just as important as it is for our cats and dogs. It is vital to do a complete exam and discuss issues such as diet, weight gains (or losses), feather growth and other health issues. In fact, having your bird weighed on a regular basis is a great way to monitor changes in health. It is also very important to address behavior problems as they arise before they get out of control! As our birds get older and live longer with us, signs of disease can be subtle and easy to miss. We can discuss doing routine blood work, radiographs,and other diagnostic tests as good preventative medicine to ensure their health.
 
-          Small Mammals.Vaccines are not part of the routine healthcare for our rabbits, guinea pigs, chinchillas, rats, hamsters, or other small pets. But annual doctor examinations are just as important for these pets for many reasons; for one, they tend to show old-age problems faster than our larger animal friends. Geriatricproblems and other health issues arise quickly, so veterinary care can be an integral part of maintaining a healthy pet for as long as possible. Diets are readily available from most pet and/or feed stores, but you might be surprised by what is truly healthy as opposed to what is offered on the shelf! These and other important husbandry issues can be covered during the yearly physical exam.
 
-          Ferrets.Ferrets are fast becoming one of the most popular pets in America, third only to dogs and cats. They are easy to keep and care for and have "clown-like" antics that will keep you entertained for hours! They are strict carnivoreswith very specific dietary needs; also, they are the only "exotic" pet that requires routine vaccines as a kit (a young ferret less than six months old) and yearly after that. Ferrets are susceptible to some of the same conditions as cats and dogs, and are prone to certain types of canceras they get older. Yearly exams and vaccines (for distemper and rabies), by a veterinarian familiar with this species, are extremely important for ferrets. With a lifespan here in the USA of about 7-9 years, a visit once a year can be critical for ensuring a long, healthy life.
 
 
HEARTWORM DISEASE

Heartworm disease is a serious and potentially fatal condition caused by parasitic worms living in the arteries of the lungs and occasionally in the right side of the heart of dogs, cats and other species of mammals, including wolves, foxes, ferrets, sea lions and (in rare instances) humans. Heartworms are classified as nematodes(roundworms) and are filarids, one of many species of roundworms.Dogs and cats of any age or breed are susceptible to infection.

Where is Heartworm Disease?

Heartworm disease has been reported in all 50 states.
 

How Heartworm Happens: The Life Cycle

First, adult female heartworms release their young, called microfilariae, into an animal's bloodstream. Then, mosquitoes become infected with microfilariaewhile taking blood meal from the infected animal. During the next 10 to 14 days, the microfilariaemature to the infective larval stage within the mosquito. After that, the mosquito bites another dog, cat or other susceptible animal, and the infectivelarvaeenter through the bite wound. It then takes a little over 6 months for the infectivelarvaeto mature into adult worms. In dogs, the worms may live for up to 7 years. Microfilariaecannot mature into adult heartworms without first passing through a mosquito.
 

What Are the Signs of Heartworm Disease?

For both dogs and cats, clinical signs of heartworm disease may not be recognized in the early stages, as the number of heartworms in an animal tends to accumulate gradually over a period of months and sometimes years and after repeated mosquito bites.
Recently infected dogs may exhibit no signs of the disease, while heavily infected dogs may eventually show clinical signs, including a mild, persistent cough, reluctance to move or exercise, fatigue after only moderate exercise, reduced appetite and weight loss.
Cats may exhibit clinical signs that are very non-specific, mimickingmany other feline diseases. Chronic clinical signs include vomiting, gagging, difficulty or rapid breathing, lethargyand weight loss. Signs associated with the first stage of heartworm disease, when the heartworms enter a blood vessel and are carried to the pulmonary arteries, are often mistaken for feline asthmaor allergic bronchitis, when in fact they are actually due to a syndrome newly defined as Heartworm Associated Respiratory Disease (HARD).

How Do You Detect Heartworm Disease?

Heartworm infection in apparently healthy animals is usually detected with blood tests for a heartworm substance called an "antigen" or microfilariae, although neither test is consistently positive until about seven months after infection has occurred.
Heartworm infection may also occasionally be detected through ultrasoundand/or x-ray images of the heart and lungs, although these tests are usually used in animals already known to be infected.

Prevention

Because heartworm disease is preventable, the American Heartworm Society (AHS) recommends that pet owners take steps now to talk to their veterinarian about how to best protect their pets from this dangerous disease. Heartworm prevention is safe, easy and inexpensive. While treatment for heartworm disease in dogs is possible, it is a complicated and expensive process, taking weeks for infected animals to recover. There is no effective treatment for heartworm disease in cats, so it is imperative that disease prevention measures be taken for cats.
There are a variety of options for preventing heartworm infection in both dogs and cats, including daily and monthly tablets and chewables, and monthly topicals. All of these methods are extremely effective, and when administered properly on a timely schedule, heartworm infection can be completely prevented. These medications interrupt heartworm development before adult worms reach the lungs and cause disease.
It is your responsibility to faithfully maintain the prevention program you have selected in consultation with our veterinarian.

Treatment 

Usually, all but the most advanced cases of heartworm disease can be successfully treated in dogs. Currently, there are no products in the United States approved for the treatment of heartworm infection in cats. Cats have proven to be more resistant hosts to heartworm than dogs, and often appear to be able to rid themselves of infection spontaneously. Unfortunately, many cats tend to react severely to the dead worms as they are being cleared by the body, and this can result in a shock reaction, a life-threatening situation. Veterinarians will often attempt to treat an infected cat with supportive therapy measures to minimize this reaction; however it is always best to prevent the disease.
 
Adult heartworms in dogs are killed using a drug called an adulticidethat is injected into the muscle through a series of treatments. When the dog is sent home, exercise should be limited to leash walking for the duration of the recovery period, which can last from one to two months. This decreases the risk of partial or complete blockage of blood flow through the lungs by dead worms.
Re-infection during treatment is prevented by administration of a heartworm preventive. These preventives may also eliminate microfilariaeif they are present. Dogs in heart failure and those with caval syndromerequire special attention.

Feline Heartworm Disease

Heartworm infection takes place when a mosquito carrying infective, microscopic-size heartworm larvae, bites into a cat for a blood meal. The larvaethen actively migrate into the new host and develop further as they travel through the subcutaneous tissue in the cat's body. At about 3-4 months, they usually settle into the arteries and blood vessels of the lungs, where they continue to develop to sexual mature male and female worms (Dirofilaria immitis). The average time from when the microscopic parasites enter the host until the females develop into mature worms and produce offspring is approximately eight months and is referred to as the prepatent period. This is about one month longer than in dogs.
As adults, the heartworms can mate and the females can release offspring called microfilariae(pronounced: micro-fil-ar-ee-a) into the blood stream. The cycle begins again when a mosquito takes a blood meal from the newly infected cat and draws the microfilariaeinto its system.
Cats are resistant hosts of heartworms, and microfilaremia, (the presence of heartworm offspring in the blood of the host animal), is uncommon (usually less than 20% of cases). When present, microfilaremiais inconsistent and short-lived. Some cats appear to be able to rid themselves of the infection spontaneously. It is assumed that such cats may have developed a strong immune responseto the heartworms, which causes the death of the parasites. These heartworms may die as a result of an inability to thrive within a given cat's body.
However, heartworms do not need to develop into adults to cause significant pulmonary damage in cats, and consequences can still be very serious when cats are infected by mosquitoes carrying heartworm larvae. Newly arriving worms and the subsequent death of most of these same worms can result in acutepulmonary inflammation response and lung injury. This initial phase is often misdiagnosed as asthmaor allergic bronchitis but in actuality is part of a syndrome now known as Heartworm Associated Respiratory Disease (HARD).

Which Cats Are Susceptible?

Although outdoor cats are at greater risk of being infected, a relatively high percentage of cats considered by their owners to be totally indoor pets also become infected. Overall, the distribution of feline heartworm infection in the United States seems to parallel that of dogs but with lower total numbers. There is no predictable age in cats for becoming infected with heartworms. Cases have been reported in cats from nine months to 17 years of age, the average being four years at diagnosis or death.

Clinical Signs

The clinical signs of heartworm infection in cats can be very non-specific, and may mimic many other feline diseases. Diagnosis by clinical signs alone is nearly impossible, but a cat may exhibit genericsigns of illness, such as vomiting intermittently (food or foam, usually unrelated to eating), lethargy, anorexia(lack of appetite), weight loss, coughing, asthma-like signs (intermittent difficulty in breathing, panting, open-mouthed breathing), gagging, difficulty breathing (dyspnea), or rapid breathing (tachypnea).
Signs associated the first stage of heartworm disease, when the heartworms enter a blood vessel and are carried to the pulmonary arteries, are often misdiagnosed as asthmaor allergic bronchitis, when in fact they are actually due to a syndrome newly defined as Heartworm Associated Respiratory Disease (HARD).
Some cats exhibit acuteclinical signs, with disease often related to the organs where the adult heartworms are thriving. Occasionally such infected cats die quickly without allowing sufficient time to make a diagnosis or offer appropriate treatment.

Clinical Signs Associated with Feline Heartworm Disease

Acute	Chronic
collapse	coughing
dyspnea	vomiting
convulsions	dyspnea
diarrhea/vomiting	lethargy
blindness	anorexia
tachycardia	weight loss
syncope	chylothorax
sudden death

Diagnosis

Heartworm infection in cats is harder to diagnose than it is in dogs, and it is easy to overlook. Diagnostic tests have limitations, so negative test results do not necessarily rule out an infection. Antigentests, for example, only detect adult female or dying male worms. Immature or male-only worm infections are rarely detected.
The diagnostic plan for heartworm disease in cats can include, but is not limited to, a physical examination, radiography (X-ray), echocardiography(ultrasoundreadings of the heart), angiocardiography (X-ray of the heart with injected contrast fluid), CBC(complete blood count), serologic testing (antigenand antibodystudy), microfilariatesting, and necropsy(after death).

Treatments

Currently, there are no products in the United States approved for the treatment of feline heartworm infection. Most cats with heartworm infection that are not demonstrating clinical signs are allowed the time for a spontaneous cure to occur. If there is evidence of disease in the lungs and their blood vessels consistent with feline heartworm infection, such cases (possibly in the early stage) can be monitored with chest X-rays every six to twelve months as needed. Supportive therapy with small, gradually decreasing doses of prednisone (a cortisone-like drug) is recommended for cats with radiographic or clinical evidence of lung disease.
Cats with severe manifestations of feline heartworm disease may require additional supportive therapy, and may benefit from intravenous fluids, oxygen therapy, cage confinement, bronchodilators (which expand the air passages of the lungs), cardiovasculardrugs, antibiotics and nursing care.
Heartworm extraction with various surgical devices has been performed in cats in which the worms can be visualized with ultrasoundat the tricuspid valve or in the right atrium(of the heart), and especially in those rare instances of caval syndrome(obstruction of blood flow affecting the heart and the liver.

Preventives

It is generally recommended that all cats be tested for both antigens and antibodies (serology) prior to administration of a heartworm preventive. There are four heartworm disease preventive products approved by the FDAfor use in cats, Heartgard^® for Cats (Ivermectin, orally) from Merial, Interceptor^® (Milbemycin oxime, orally) from Novartis, Revolution^® (Selemectin, topically) from Pfizer and Advantage Multi™ for Cats (Moxidectin / imidacloprid, topically) from Bayer. All of these products are considered effective in preventing the development of adult heartworms when administered properly on a monthly basis relative to the period of transmission.


HYGIENCE

Bathing Pets
-          Dogs are like kids. Most of them don’t like to take baths. But even shorthaired, wash-and-wear dogs need proper grooming and an occasional bath. Bathing too often, however, can remove the natural oils that keep a dog’s skin and coat healthy. How much washing is too much depends on the humidity and the shampoo used.
In general, a good brushing is all that a pooch needs to get freshened up. In addition to removing dirt, a regular brushing will clean out loose hair and make your dog more comfortable. But bathing is appropriate when a dog has significant body odor – for example, when Fido has rolled in something he shouldn’t have. So remember – a dirty dog needs a brush and a smelly dog needs a bath.

Cleaning Pets' Ears
-          As a general rule, you should clean your dog's ears about once a month or when bathing. If your dog swims or gets his ears wet regularly, you'll want to do it more often. Ear cleaning starts with good general grooming.
-          First, remove excess, dirty, or matted hair from around the ear canal and the ear flap. In some cases, excess hair may need to be gently removed from inside. A technician or pet groomer can remove the hair if needed.  Next, choose a mild ear cleaner formulated especially for pets. Avoid using vinegar, alcohol, or hydrogen peroxide. There are several types of cleaners to choose from. Some cleaners break up wax, while others dry the ear canal. There are combination products as well.  Baby wipes work well, too.
-          Now, it's time to actually clean out the ear canals. Always be gentle! The ear canals and flaps are sensitive. Overly aggressive cleaning can actually cause damage to the delicate ear structures. Pick up an ear flap and dribble a small amount (a few drops) of the appropriate ear cleaning solution into the ear. The solution should flow down deep into the canal. Massage gently at the ear base for 10-20 seconds -- you will probably hear the solution squish around as you massage. This should not be painful for your dog. If it is, have him examined by our vet. Repeat the cleaning procedure with the other ear canal. 
-          After massaging, stand back and let your dog shake his head to bring softened wax up out of the ear canals. Use clean cotton balls to gently wipe out and up the canal, removing any wax, debris, or cleaning solution you see. For small dogs, you may need to use cotton balls or baby wipes that have been pulled in half. Avoid using cotton swabs -- a cotton swab placed too deeply or forcefully into the ear can cause ear drum damage, pain, and hearing loss.

Cleaning Pets' Eyes
-          You may be eyeing your dog's eyes, and realizing they need a good cleaning – especially if you have a pup with long fur. First, make sure that there is only dirt around the eyes – if you notice redness, pus, or swelling, call our veterinarian.  If all you see is a little bit of grime, carefully trim the hair around your dog's eyes, cutting parallel to the eyelid. This will keep hair from scratching your pet's eyes. Then use a soft, wet washcloth or special eyewipes to gently clean the eye area.  If the fur around your dog's eyes is stained, don't worry – this is a natural phenomenon. But if you're bothered by the sight of it, you can look for commercial cleaners that are designed to remove tear stains.
-          Of course, we are always here to help clean your pet’s eyes. To be safe, bring your pet by for us to check out the eyes to make sure nothing is medically wrong.

Lost Pets: What do do?
First, search your property thoroughly. Cats and small dogs can get into some mighty strange places.
·         We once had a cat that got stuck in an 8" ventilation pipe for 2 days right next to the house! We searched frantically, night and day, for him all during this time. Finally we heard his pitiful, faint cries coming from the pipe and saved him! (We immediately installed a screen over the outlet so that this would never happen again.)
·         The point is, look in EVERY nook and cranny. Don't assume that your pet would never crawl into some tiny space.
·         Look behind, under, and inside washing machines, clothes dryers, stoves, refrigerators, and dish washers. Look behind water heaters, in boxes, under furniture, under beds, in closets, in cabinets, in shelves and bookcases, in drain pipes, in sewer drains, in culvert pipes, under vehicles, in crawl spaces under the house, inside sheds and barns, etc. In the case of cats, also look in attic crawl spaces, on the roof, in roof gutters, and up in the trees.

Walk the neighborhood, talk to everybody, and leave your phone number.
·         Go to each house in the area where your pet was lost and talk to the residents. Write down a description of your lost pet and your phone number and leave it with them. Leave it attached to their door if they are not home.
·         Talk to everybody you run across. This includes the postman, paperboy, children, parents waiting at the school bus stop, school crossing guards, neighborhood crime watch groups, garbage pick-up crews, etc. Give them a written description of your pet and your phone number as well.
·         Try to get all the neighborhood children involved. Kids are great at finding lost pets!
·         Ask everybody if they saw or heard anything unusual in the neighborhood and carefully write down everything they tell you. This could include strange vehicles, work crews, people, or activities. Get detailed descriptions of everything.
·         Don't travel alone. Take a friend or family member with you.
·         Don't write down your name or address. Because of scam artists and other criminals in our society, it is never a good idea to publicize this information.
·         Offer a reward, but don't state the amount.

Make some noise while you walk around the neighborhood!Animals can hear you from great distances.
·         Have all your family members call the pet's name.
·         If your pet has a favorite "squeaky toy" bring it along and use it to help you make familiar noises.
·         Use an "Acme Dog Whistle" to get your pet's attention. The high-pitched sound from these whistles can carry up to a mile or more. Cats are attracted to this sound as well as dogs. (Note: this whistle is the "silent" ultrasonic type, but has a simple adjustment that lowers the tone into the human audible range. Use this audible tone when searching for your pet because the sound will carry farther)
·         Carry a box of your pet's favorite biscuits, chews, or other treats and rattle it loudly while calling your pet's name.
·         Make any other noise that your pet is familiar with.
·         It's also important to stop regularly, be quiet, and listen for your pet to make a noise in reply.
·         The neighbors will think you're crazy, but hey, this is your pet's life we're talking about here!
Bring a powerful flashlight(even during daylight hours) for checking in dark spaces.
·         A frightened or injured cat will hide in dark spaces and will not come to you. An injured dog will also hide in dark places.
·         Use your flashlight for checking under houses and other dark spots. Also check storage sheds, garages, dumpsters, trash cans, and under cars. Don't forget to look in trees for a cat.
Place strong-scented articles outside your home to attract your pet.Animals find their way by scent as well as sound.
·         Place some of your dirty clothes outdoors. Sweaty gym socks and jogging suits are great for this!
·         Place a cat's litterbox, bedding, and favorite toys outside.
·         Place a dog’s bedding and favorite toys outside.
·         Put out some smelly food such as tuna, sardines, or warm, freshly cooked chicken, liver, or other savory meat. Be sure to protect the food if you can, so that other animals don't eat it!
·         If it's cool or warm weather (not hot or cold), crate other family pets and place them outside in a SAFE and SECURE area.

Call local veterinary offices during the day.
·         Find out if your pet was injured and taken to any of these offices or clinics for treatment.
·         If an office has taken in or treated any animal that even remotely resembles your pet, VISIT THE OFFICE IN PERSON. Your description of your pet and their description of the same pet do not always match, so you must go see for yourself.  
·         Call any rescue organizations in the area and ask for their help and find out if they have your pet.
VISIT your local Animal Shelter and County Pound including the ones in surrounding areas.
·         You must actually visit the animal control and humane shelters every day or two. It works well if several family members can take turns visiting the shelters.
·         Your description of your pet and their description rarely match. YOU MUST GO LOOK! Be sure to check all areas of the shelter, including the infirmary. Also be aware that dogs may be housed in the cat section and vice-versa.
·         Leave a picture of your pet and your phone number at each shelter. Befriend them.
·         Find out the holding period of each animal control and humane shelter. Be aware of how much time you have to claim your pet before it is euthanized!
·         Some animal control agencies keep an animal for only a few days before they either adopt it out or euthanize. Try to be there!

Find out if your pet has been killed on the road.
·         This is a very sad, but necessary task. Otherwise, you may never know what happened to your pet and it could haunt you for years.
·         The road crews for your local and state department of transportation (DOT) usually pick up dead animals from the roadside and city streets.

It is extremely important to post MANY flyers about your lost pet within a 1-mile radius of where he/she was lost.
·         Overall, flyers or posters produce more "finds" than anything else. But don't neglect the rest of the tips!
·         Your budget will determine how many flyers you can afford to post, but the more the better.
·         DO NOT PUT YOUR NAME OR ADDRESS ON YOUR FLYER!
·         If possible, it is best to place a color photo of your pet on each flyer.
·         Use 8-1/2" X 11" fluorescent paper for high visibility.
·         List the date and place your pet was lost, breed of dog or cat, sex, age, weight, color, markings, and your telephone number. Offer a reward. Some experts recommend not stating an amount; others say to offer a larger reward to increase attention.  
·         It is important to withhold several identifying marks and characteristicsof your lost pet. You may need to use these later to verify that a person has actually found your pet and is not trying to scam you.
·         Post the flyers at waist level on telephone poles and at eye level in such places as veterinary offices, pet shops, barber & beauty shops, grocery stores, community bulletin boards, churches, pizza parlors, laundromats, convenience stores, near schools, and on school bulletin boards.
·         Examine your posted flyers frequently and replace the ones that are missing or damaged.

Place an Ad in your local newspaper.
·         Be sure to advertise in the Sunday edition as well as during the week.
·         Also place an ad in any "Buy-Sell" type of publications you might have in your area.

Check the newspaper "found" ads every day.
·         Check regularly in any other local publications.

Don't ever give up!Pets have been known to find their way back home after being lost for several months. Good luck!

A Few Words of Caution

There are dangerous people in our society who prey upon victims by using "found" pets as a ploy.
·         NEVERrespond to a "found" pet contact alone. Take a friend or two along with you.
·         Arrange to meet in a public place.
·         NEVERinvite the person to your home unless you happen to know them well.
Beware of money scams.A common one is a person calls you claiming to be a long-haul trucker. He says he picked up your pet and is out of state now. He heard about your ad, flyer, etc. and says he will return your pet if you will pay to ship it home. This person does not have your pet, he is only trying to take your money.
Don't wander around looking for your pet alone,either during the day or at night. Always bring a friend or relative. This is especially important in unfamiliar neighborhoods.
Use the identifying information you have withheld about your pet.Please remember that you should never give out all of the identifying features of your lost pet. If the person who claims to have found your pet cannot describe these features to you, they do not have your pet!
 
If you live in or near Calhoun County, please join this Facebook group:

http://www.facebook.com/groups/248508395218953/

It is dedicated to bringing lost pets back to their families.  I will start posting the notifications that I receive there.  It is an open group, so anyone who finds a lost pet or loses one can post there and everyone in the group will see that post immediately.  When a pet is lost, time is of the essence, so getting the info out ASAP is a must!

When You Find Your Pet
Go around and collect up all of your old flyers.
Thank everybody who has helped you.
Letus know! We are always glad to hear about lost and found "success" stories.

How to keep your pets from getting lost.

Safeguard your pets before they are lostby following the tips below.
Pet-proof your yard fenceso your cat or dog will be safely confined. Be sure to check your fence regularly for new escape routes.
Keep fence gates securely locked.This is for the safety of both your pet and any visitors (wanted or unwanted).
Never allow your pets to roam free in the neighborhood.Leash them at all times.
Always transport a cat in a carrier.Never take your cat to the Vet or anywhere else unless it is secured. A carried cat can bolt and hide if frightened by loud noises. When a cat is frightened in strange surroundings, especially with traffic noise around, it will hide and will not come to you.
The same goes for dogs.Always leash them when taking them anywhere. If a dog gets loose in an unfamiliar area its chances of ever finding its way home are practically nil.
Get some good photos of your pet now.
·         Take close-up shots so that details show up well.
·         Keep taking shots until you get a few good ones that really look like your pet. Most snapshots of pets look like any other cat or dog. You want your photos to be unique and your pet to be unmistakable.
·         These photos will be invaluable to you later if your pet is ever lost.
Train your pet (cat or dog) to associate an "Acme Dog Whistle" with pleasant things.Blow the whistle each time just before you feed them. They will then be more likely to come running to you when you use the whistle to find them when they are lost.
Ensure that YOU can be located if your pet is found.
·         Always keep a collar on your pet with a tag that has your CURRENT PHONE NUMBER on it.
·         Always have a CURRENT rabies tag and pet license tag attached to your pet's collar. You can be found by the number on the tags.
·         A collar and phone tag are the most important form of IDyou can have for your pet. However, pets can lose their collars on the streets. For real security, a backup is needed (see the next two items).
·         Talk to your vet about a microchip implant.A chip provides positive and reliable identification for your pet and all modern shelters scan animals for this ID device. Find out which brand of chip is prevalent in your area and go with that one. If you have a choice, we like the HomeAgain^TM microchips.
The HomeAgain^TM microchip is distributed by Schering-Plough Animal Health. The American Kennel Club maintains a nationwide database of these microchip numbers. The chip is constructed in a way that tends to prevent migration from the injection site. Call (800)234-6373 to find a Vet near you who offers this product.
·         Also ask your vet about pet tattoos.We don't like tattoos as well as we do microchips, but they also provide positive identification if done correctly. A tattoo is often very difficult to read because hair has grown over it and/or the lost animal is frightened and will not allow inspection. If you do use a tattoo, we feel that the best place to apply it is on the inner thigh. Pet thieves have been known to cut off a tattooed ear!
More about rabies tags.
·         It is absolutely vital that your pet have a CURRENT rabies tag on it at all times!
And finally, spay or neuter your pets!
·         Both males and females will be much less likely to wander if they are "fixed."
·         An added benefit is that they will live a longer, happier, healthier life if they are spayed or neutered.
 
Medical Questions/Concerns

Benadryl
-          Yes. Benadryl (Diphenhydramine Hydrochloride) is a commonly used drug in human medicine. It can also be used for allergic reactions in pets. As with any pet-specific information, the only correct answer is to check with our veterinarian before dosing your pet.

Diarrhea
-          If your dog is acting normally other than the diarrhea, then you can try withholding all food and water for 12 hours. After that time period, you can introduce small amounts of food at a time. However, if your dog is lethargic in any way, you should call a veterinarian for instructions.
-           
Dog LIcking
-          A dog that licks his feet, rubs his face, or scratches behind his elbows may be showing signs of an allergy. Dogs can be allergic to all sorts of things such as house dust, grass or weeds, food, or fleas. Call our veterinary office to schedule an appointment to consult with the doctor about this, especially if your dog is showing any hair loss.
 Dog Scooting
-          He may have intestinal parasites but that may not be why he is "scooting.” It is usually an indication that his anal glands are full and need attention by a veterinarian. Anal glands are small glands on either side of the rectum. They contain a fishy smelling substance and before domestication dogs and cats used them to mark their territory. Pets no longer have active control of these glands and therefore they can become full and need emptying. Cats will generally lick their rectal area excessively if their anal sacs are full.
 
Eating Grass
-          This is an age-old question. There are many possibilities: they like the taste of grass (especially the
soft new grass of spring), they are hungry, perhaps not feeling well, and eating something to see if
that helps (kind of like humans do sometimes!).
 
 Most dogs do best with 2 or more small feedings a day rather than one large feeding. A commercial
diet or well-prepared home diet should not be lacking in essential nutrients. If they have an empty
stomach, bile can reflux (flow back up in to the stomach from the intestine) and this is irritating.
This can cause vomiting of clear, yellow fluid.

Heat Cycles
-          If your female cat does not mate, she will go into estrus or heat, as often as every two to three weeks, for several months each year, until she either mates or is spayed. Cats as young as 4-6 months old can go into the heat cycle and they should be spayed as soon as possible unless they are pedigreed and you wish to breed from them. The cycle is extremely uncomfortable for her, even if it does not inconvenience you. Your cat will be in heat for one or two days, but won't really come all the way out of it until you have her spayed.
 
-          Non-spayed female dogs will go into "heat" or estrus usually twice a year. The age at which they start their cycles, usually about 6 months of age, and the duration, 4-21 days, of the cycle varies between the breeds of dogs and individual dogs.  For dogs that will be pets, it is recommended to spay them before the first heat, eliminating the risk of accidental pregnancy and reproductive diseases later on in life. Dogs may be spayed while in heat (or pregnant), but there is additional risk due to the engorged vessels and tissue of the reproductive tract -- a higher chance of bleeding during surgery or other complications. The cost of surgery while in heat or pregnant is higher as well.

Hit by Car
-          NO! Many times dogs hide a concussion which can be life threatening if not treated immediately. Also, dogs and cats can suffer from a condition called "traumatic lung syndrome,” a condition in which the lungs can become full of fluid after a sudden blow. It is best to contact a veterinarian anytime your pet has been in an accident with a car.

Litter Box Problems
-          Cats are very prone to a condition called “feline lower urinary tract syndrome." Basically, it is a urinary bladder infection or inflammation which can lead to urinary tract obstruction in male cats. This is a serious condition and you should contact the veterinarian office immediately if your cat is showing this type of behavior.

Seizures
-          Dogs and cats can have seizures or convulsions, just like people.  Seizures in pets can be caused by a number of different conditions.  An important thing to remember if your pet has a seizure is not to panic.  Your pet is unconscious and not in any pain.  (People that have seizures describe feeling dazed, tired, or confused after having a seizure, but that the seizure itself is not painful.) Make sure that your pet is on the floor on a soft surface so that it can't injure itself by falling off furniture or down a flight of stairs.  Do not try to open your pet's mouth or put your fingers in it.  It is not possible for your pet to "swallow its tongue."  During a seizure, you may see muscle spasms, and your pet may "paddle" their legs or extend them in a rigid fashion.  Many pets lose control of their bladder or bowel. 
-          If you have never seen a seizure before, you may think it is going on and on, but in reality most seizures last for less than a minute.  However, if the seizure does in fact not stop within a minute or two (check your watch!), or if several seizures occur within a few minutes of each other, the situation is an emergency.  In this case, you should get your pet to our veterinary hospital immediately.

Tylenol/Over-the-counter Meds
-          No!  Acetaminophen (Tylenol) and Ibuprofen (Advil, Motrum IB) are toxic to both cats and dogs, even in small doses. Pepto Bismol is also highly toxic when used in treating cats. In general, it's never a good idea to just assume a human medication will be a safe and effective treatment for your pet. ALWAYS contact our veterinarian to discuss your options before starting any medical therapy.
 
NUTRITION

How much food should I feed my pet?
-          Choose a high-quality food and look at the recommendations on the label. Our Client Services Staff will
be glad to assist you with purchasing the proper food for your pet.
-          Remember, these feeding recommendations are simply guidelines, not absolutes. There is often a
wide range listed and there is little consistency in feeding guidelines between brands. You must
consider the following, and adjust the food amount accordingly:

• The actual calorie content of the food
• Your pet's weight (and projected target weight if necessary). Ask our veterinarian if you're not sure about an ideal weight for your pet
• Your pet's activity level
• Other environmental variables (temperature)
• Any additional calories from treats or table foods
• Remember, most pets are overfed and under-exercised - so, if in doubt about how much to feed initially, feed a little less

-          After you have started feeding your pet an appropriate amount of food, weigh your pet at least once a month to determine if you (and your pet) are on the right track. If necessary, increase or decrease the amount of food slightly until the pet stays at his ideal weight. You can easily weigh your small dog or cat on your bathroom scale - simply weigh yourself while you hold your pet, then weigh yourself without your pet and subtract the difference. Larger dogs can be weighed at our veterinary office. Remember, most pets are overfed and under-exercised - so, if in doubt about how much to feed initially, feed a little less.

ONLINE PET PHARMACIES

You’ve seen TV advertisements for internet pet pharmacies – they promote the convenience of home shopping with the benefit of big savings, but are they a wise option for you and your pet?

While most online pharmacies are trustworthy, some have questionable ethics and even some of the top pharmacies have been fined in several states. You are always welcome to call our office to discuss any questions you may have with veterinary online pharmacies.

Please review our requirements for working with am internet pharmacy along with the important benefits our pharmacy offers to you and your pet.
 
REQUIREMENTS: See next section

Keeping your pet healthy and happy is important. From routine to advanced optimal care, our veterinary practice is proud to offer the very best in veterinary medicine.

Can I have my pets prescription filled at an internet pharmacy?
-          Our clients always have the option of having a prescription filled at an internet pharmacy. However, because some internet pharmacies have dubious business practices, we will need a direct request from you with the prescription drugs you wish to have filled. In order to process a prescription the law requires that a veterinarian must have seen your pet within the past year. Depending on the patient’s medical condition and medication prescribed, this timeframe may be shorter.


-          Internet pharmacies will ask you to give them our contact information. They will call us or fax the request to us for approval. We will not approve any internet pharmacy requests. We only approve requests made directly by you, the client. This process is a little more involved than the TV advertisements would have you believe, but there are other important reasons why we feel an internet pharmacy is not always the best choice for our clients and patients.


-          If you need a prescription refilled at any time, a phone call to our office will have it ready for you to pickup within a short timeframe, or if you prefer we can drop your prescription in the mail.
Our pharmacy is a vital and integral part of our practice. It provides our clients and their pets with the latest technology, convenience, and the right medications – all at a competitive price.
 
Why does Animal Medical Center discourage online pet pharmacy interaction?
-          PRICE:Internet pharmacies are not always the cheapest source for medication. Our price for most items is typically less than most internet pharmacies would charge. In addition, some medications are temperature sensitive and require next day or 2nd day air delivery, which adds to the cost. Prescriptions sometimes need a signature on delivery, so you need to be home to receive the shipment.

GUARANTEE: Pharmaceutical manufacturers will only honor product guarantees when the medications are prescribed by and purchased from the pet’s veterinarian. Internet and mail-order catalogs do not qualify for these guarantees.

SAFETY: Any prescription medication purchased from our hospital has been inspected and approved by the FDA, and manufactured and packaged according to U.S. government regulations. Medications purchased online may have been purchased outside the United States and have different strengths and labeling than U.S. products. Sometimes you can tell by checking the label. If approved by the FDA, it should say, "Caution: Federal law restricts this drug to be used by or on the order of a licensed veterinarian.” Do not use products that do not have this warning or if the label has been removed.

REBATES: Our veterinary practice also passes on manufacturers’ promotions and/or rebates and these frequently result in greater savings. These rebates are not usually available from online stores or catalogs.

CONVENIENCE: Using an Internet pharmacy means a delay in getting your medication. It typically takes 1-2 days for the online pharmacy to contact us and process the prescription, then there’s a 2-5 day shipping time.

INSURANCE: Pet Insurance companies require that all prescriptions be FDA approved. If you have pet health insurance you may be reimbursed on medications when purchased from a legal online pharmacy. You will be required to provide a copy of your veterinarian’s prescription order and a copy of the Internet pharmacy’s invoice. When you purchase a prescription from our hospital there is no additional paperwork. Your hospital office call along with any prescription is all itemized on one invoice for easy submission to your insurance company.

EDUCATION: Every week representatives from companies like Bayer, Pfizer, Novartis, Merial, and others visit our office. These representatives have access to the latest data and research, and are a valuable source of up-to-the-minute information. In addition, our staff regularly attends veterinary conferences and reads the latest veterinary medical journals and research papers. We stay up-to-date on the latest disease trends in our region and stay abreast of recent advances in veterinary medicine. However, our first source of information about products and treatment protocols are the pharmaceutical representatives. Because we offer a full-service dispensing pharmacy on site, these folks make a point of visiting our hospital frequently.

 ORPHANED ANIMAL CARE
 
Baby Birds
 
-          Cardinals

The male cardinal is the only all red bird in North America with a crest. He has a black face patch at the base of the thick red bill. The female is yellowish-brown with reddish wings and crest. Adult cardinals are 7 ½ to 9 inches long with a wing spread of 10 to 12 inches and weigh an average of 43.75 grams. The adult cardinal’s metabolism functions best between 66º and 88ºF.

These birds reside in woodlands, thickets, parks and gardens and are known to live as long as 1-13 years in the wild. They are non-migratory and seldom travel more than a few miles from their breeding territory. Cardinals nest from March through August laying 2 to 5, 25 x 18 mm, pale green with reddish-speckled eggs in a bowl-shaped nest in trees, thickets or vines 4 to 5 feet above the ground. A pair may raise 2, 3, or even 4 broods in a season with the male feeding hatchlings as the female builds a new nest to incubate successive broods. Male cardinals have been observed feeding females prior to breeding perhaps aiding in building the strong bonds required for such intense breeding practices. Incubation requires 12 to 13 days with the young leaving the nest when 10 to 11 days old.

Description of hatchlings: Brownish-gray down; red mouth with cream-colored gape flanges; “bug” eyes.

Development: Eyes are open within a week. The young are feathered and hopping out of the nest by 10 days. They fly well by 2 to 3 weeks, even before fully feathered.

Natural diet: Eat at least 51 kinds of insects, 33 kinds of wild fruit and 39 varieties of weed seed.

Substitute diet:

Nestling: Small mealworms drowned in vitamin/mineral solution such as ¼ tsp. Plex-Sol C, 1 tbsp. Avimin, 8 oz. Water, and well-soaked Purina HiPro dog meal.

Fledgling: mealworms, insects, grains, fruit, seeds supplemented with greens and fruit.

Caging:

Nestling: berry basket lined with unscented facial tissue; external heat at 85º F.

Fledgling: 2’x2’x2’ cage minimum; move to a walk-in aviary (6’x6’x4’) when beginning to self feed until release.

Feeding: Nestling cardinals will readily open their mouths, but are unable to easily eat a whole piece of soaked Hi Pro. Pieces should be broken into smaller bites for feeding. These birds will eat an amazing amount of food for their size and although their crop will be bulging after feeding, it will be emptied in a 30-minute interval. They should be fed every 30 minutes during daylight hours a diet of 50% mealworms and 50% HiPro. Feed killed mealworms head first. Be sure to offer drops of distilled water at each feeding. Place the drops of water on the side of the bird’s beak, never directly into its throat.

Add greens to the diet when the cardinal begins to fledge. Chop fresh alfalfa sprouts and greens for each feeding. Cardinals are suspicious of long sprouts protruding from feeding tweezers, and are more likely to accept a few bites of greens which have been cut into smaller portions.

After moving fledglings to their larger caging, begin to leave a fresh variety of seeds (millet, oats, shelled sunflower seeds, etc.), greens (sprouts, lettuce) and fruit (apples, peaches, strawberries, figs, grapes, etc.) cut into small pieces in their cage. A shallow tray of water and a container of bird grit should be provided. Attach a cuttlebone to the side of the cage. Hand feeding of mealworms and Hi Pro may now be extended to one hour intervals, but do not assume that they are eating and drinking on their own. Continue to offer water at each feeding; cardinals become demanding for their water supplement.

When the cardinal begins to self-feed, hand feeding may be extended to two-hour intervals to encourage self-feeding. Live mealworms and pieces of soaked HiPro should now be added to their cage feeders as well as unshelled sunflower seeds. Discontinue hand feeding when the birds are readily eating a variety of foods on their own.

Release: Ready to release at 6 to 7 weeks old. They should be totally self-feeding, able to fly well and be unfriendly towards humans. These birds may be released at any time of year when the weather is satisfactory and where other cardinals are known to reside.

Back-up Feeding: Cardinals require back-up sources of seeds and will readily visit a feeder. Soaked Hi Pro may also be offered. Fresh water should be constantly available.


-          CHICKADEES:

Raise like wrens until self-feeding, then add greens and seeds to diet.


-          CHIMNEY SWIFTS:

The chimney swift is one of four regularly occurring species of swifts found in North America, and the most common one east of the Rocky Mountains. As their name implies, they are accustomed to building their nests in chimneys as well as old buildings and occasionally stone wells. Because of their close association with man, the adults and their young are frequent candidates for rehabilitation.

Adult chimney swifts are most commonly seen in flight. When soaring, their long, scythe-shaped wings span about 12 ½ “ to support a proportionately short body with a squared-off tail. The flickering, bat-like flight when flapping is due to short, massive wing-bones. Usually seen in groups, chimney swifts’ flight is accompanied by a sharp “chippering” or “ticking” call.

At rest, an average 5”, 22.8 gram adult is sooty gray to black with the throat slightly lighter in color. Both sexes are identical in appearance. The long wings cross by an inch or more over the tail feathers which are tipped by pointed bristles. All four toes on the small feet point forward and have sharp, curved claws. Both the claws and tail bristles are useful in clinging to rough, vertical surfaces. Swifts are unable to perch.

Chimney swifts winter in the Amazon Basin of Peru. They appear in March and are gone by late October. Nesting begins in May and has been known to continue into August. The female normally lays 4 to 5 (rarely 2 to 7) white eggs in a nest of twigs glued together with saliva and attached to a vertical surface. Because the nest is unlined, the eggs must be constantly incubated by alternating adults. After 18 to 19 days, the eggs begin to hatch.

Description of hatchlings: Naked at birth; sharp claws able to cling to textured surfaces; loud chattering when stimulated.

Development: Within a few days black pin feathers begin to appear; able to climb; begin to preen, even with no feathers.

8 to 10 days – feathers begin to unfurl

12 to 14 days – eyes open

3 weeks – fully feathered and “practice flapping”

4 weeks – flying

Nestling housing: Tall basket lined with cloth such as muslin. Unscented facial tissue in the bottom facilitates cleaning. External heat (85ºF.) with high humidity (60-70%) until feathered. Preferably a “hospital box” or incubator/brooder with automatic thermostat and indirect or filtered sunlight.

Natural diet: Flying insects and spiders

Substitute diet: Small mealworms drowned in a small amount of:

1 tbsp. Avimin liquid mineral supplement

¼ tsp. Plex-Sol C powdered vitamin supplement

8 oz. Distilled water


-          Soaked Purina HiPro dog meal dipped in a mixture of equal parts of full-strength Nutrical and plain, active-culture yogurt. The worms of HiPro should have a light sprinkling of Plus Yeast (brand) protein powder for essential amino-acids.

Feeding: Chimney swifts’ feeding responses can be triggered by tapping the basket, tapping their beaks or by a gust of wind (parent’s wings). They respond by bobbing their heads up and down, chattering loudly and gulping at anything close by. With a little practice, they can be taught to feed from above with a pair of tweezers. Each gapping bird should be given a small piece of Hi Pro (prepared as described in “Substitute Diet”) and as many mealworms as it desires every 30 minutes, 12 to 13 hours per day until its eyes are open; every hour until fully feathered; and every 2 hours until released. Because swifts feed on the wing and are unable to perch, they will never learn to self-feed in captivity.

One or two drops of distilled water from a curved irrigating syringe should follow each feeding. Place the drops on the beak: never put water into a bird’s throat. Chimney swifts become fond of these droplets, and may begin biting them from the tip of the syringe.

Caution: A swift’s nostrils are very far forward. Be careful not to get food in them. It will harden and be difficult to remove. Always clean the bird’s face with a damp tissue after each feeding.

Fledgling housing: Fledgling swifts require a large area for practice flying – at least 10’ x 15’ x 8’ tall. The larger the better. Any windows should be covered to prevent the birds from flying into them and becoming injured. Some textured substance should be provided on at least two opposite walls for the swifts to cling to. Fledglings must have access to this area during all daylight hours from the time they begin to fly until released.

Release: After a week of practice flying, and when the bird’s wings cross by an inch or more. Release should be considered. Chimney swifts are migratory and very communal. Always release them at least two weeks prior to normal migration time, and always into a known population.

Early on a calm morning, locate a group of chimney swifts and toss the bird skyward as they fly overhead. Usually if the new bird strays, some of the others will swoop down and show it the way.

Another method for release is to place the bird above the damper inside a chimney where other swifts are living. If all goes well, the bird will climb up to the others and join their colony. Check the chimney periodically to make sure the bird has not fallen back down or gotten into a bind.

Back-up feeding is not possible. However, if released where they are raised, some swifts do return for a few days.

Special Problems: If aspiration does occur when giving a bird water from a syringe or eye dropper, using distilled water will minimize the chance of causing pneumonia. Distilled water has no suspended particles to irritate the lungs.

Unlined baskets have caused problems of injured feet and broken primary feathers. These accidents can be avoided by lining the basket with a snag-free material such as muslin. An empty mealworm bag suits quite well.

Young swifts which are not given yogurt will not be able to properly digest their food, and may develop problems such as excess mucus in the mouth, off-color droppings, poor featherings and even death.

Injuries: Baby swifts are subject to several injuries simply because of the location of their nests. The sounds they make when begging for food are often mistaken for those of bats. Fires intended to drive them off cause poisoning from toxic fumes and burns. Internal injuries can sometimes be treated with an oral antibiotic such as Hetacin-K or Polyotic. Burns should be cleaned and treated with a topical antibiotic such as Furacin or Neosporin. Sometimes claws are ripped out when the youngsters are pulled from a chimney. An ointment such as Panalog will reduce swelling and stop infection. Be sure to consult us before using any drug.

Injured adults must be force-fed about six drowned mealworms and a small piece of soak