CARE OF ORPHANED BIRDS

Animal Medical Center

CARE OF ORPHANED BIRDS

CARDINALS:

The male cardinal is the only all red bird in North America with a crest. He has a black face patch at the base of the thick red bill. The female is yellowish-brown with reddish wings and crest. Adult cardinals are 7 ½ to 9 inches long with a wing spread of 10 to 12 inches and weigh an average of 43.75 grams. The adult cardinal’s metabolism functions best between 66º and 88ºF.

These birds reside in woodlands, thickets, parks and gardens and are known to live as long as 1-13 years in the wild. They are non-migratory and seldom travel more than a few miles from their breeding territory. Cardinals nest from March through August laying 2 to 5, 25 x 18 mm, pale green with reddish-speckled eggs in a bowl-shaped nest in trees, thickets or vines 4 to 5 feet above the ground. A pair may raise 2, 3, or even 4 broods in a season with the male feeding hatchlings as the female builds a new nest to incubate successive broods. Male cardinals have been observed feeding females prior to breeding perhaps aiding in building the strong bonds required for such intense breeding practices. Incubation requires 12 to 13 days with the young leaving the nest when 10 to 11 days old.

Description of hatchlings: Brownish-gray down; red mouth with cream-colored gape flanges; “bug” eyes.

Development: Eyes are open within a week. The young are feathered and hopping out of the nest by 10 days. They fly well by 2 to 3 weeks, even before fully feathered.

Natural diet: Eat at least 51 kinds of insects, 33 kinds of wild fruit and 39 varieties of weed seed.

Substitute diet:

Nestling: Small mealworms drowned in vitamin/mineral solution such as ¼ tsp. Plex-Sol C, 1 tbsp. Avimin, 8 oz. Water, and well-soaked Purina HiPro dog meal.

Fledgling: mealworms, insects, grains, fruit, seeds supplemented with greens and fruit.

Caging:

Nestling: berry basket lines with unscented facial tissue; external heat at 85º F.

Fledgling: 2’x2’x2’ cage minimum; move to a walk-in aviary (6’x6’x4’) when beginning to self feed until release.

Feeding: Nestlling cardinals will readily open their mouths, but are unable to easily eat a whole piece of soaked Hi Pro. Pieces should be broken into smaller bites for feeding. These birds will eat an amazing amount of food for their size and although their crop will be bulging after feeding, it will be emptied in a 30-minute interval. They should be fed every 30 minutes during daylight hours a diet of 50% mealworms and 50% HiPro. Feed killed mealworms head first. Be sure to offer drops of distilled water at each feeding. Place the drops of water on the side of the bird’s beak, never directly into its throat.

Add greens to the diet when the cardinal begins to fledge. Chop fresh alfalfa sprouts and greens for each feeding. Cardinals are suspicious of long sprouts protruding from feeding tweezers, and are more likely to accept a few bites of greens which have been cut into smaller portions.

After moving fledglings to their larger caging, begin to leave a fresh variety of seeds (millet, oats, shelled sunflower seeds, etc.), greens (sprouts, lettuce) and fruit (apples, peaches, strawberries, figs, grapes, etc.) cut into small pieces in their cage. A shallow tray of water and a container of bird grit should be provided. Attach a cuttlebone to the side of the cage. Hand feeding of mealworms and Hi Pro may now be extended to one hour intervals, but do not assume that they are eating and drinking on their own. Continue to offer water at each feeding; cardinals become demanding for their water supplement.

When the cardinal begins to self-feed, hand feeding may be extended to two-hour intervals to encourage self-feeding. Live mealworms and pieces of soaked HiPro should now be added to their cage feeders as well as unshelled sunflower seeds. Discontinue hand feeding when the birds are readily eating a variety of foods on their own.

Release: Ready to release at 6 to 7 weeks old. They should be totally self-feeding, able to fly well and be unfriendly towards humans. These birds may be released at any time of year when the weather is satisfactory and where other cardinals are known to reside.

Back-up Feeding: Cardinals require back-up sources of seeds and will readily visit a feeder. Soaked Hi Pro may also be offered. Fresh water should be constantly available.

CHICKADEES: Raise like wrens until self-feeding, then add greens and seeds to diet.

CHIMNEY SWIFTS:

The chimney swift is one of four regularly occurring species of swifts found in North America, and the most common one east of the Rocky Mountains. As their name implies, they are accustomed to building their nests in chimneys as well as old buildings and occasionally stone wells. Because of their close association with man, the adults and their young are frequent candidates for rehabilitation.

Adult chimney swifts are most commonly seen in flight. When soaring, their long, scythe-shaped wings span about 12 ½ “ to support a proportionately short body with a squared-off tail. The flickering, bat-like flight when flapping is due to short, massive wing-bones. Usually seen in groups, chimney swifts’ flight is accompanied by a sharp “chippering” or “ticking” call.

At rest, an average 5”, 22.8 gram adult is sooty gray to black with the throat slightly lighter in color. Both sexes are identical in appearance. The long wings cross by an inch or more over the tail feathers which are tipped by pointed bristles. All four toes on the small feet point forward and have sharp, curved claws. Both the claws and tail bristles are useful in clinging to rough, vertical surfaces. Swifts are unable to perch.

Chimney swifts winter in the Amazon Basin of Peru. They appear in March and are gone by late October. Nesting begins in May and has been known to continue into August. The female normally lays 4 to 5 (rarely 2 to 7) white eggs in a nest of twigs glued together with saliva and attached to a vertical surface. Because the nest is unlined, the eggs must be constantly incubated by alternating adults. After 18 to 19 days, the eggs begin to hatch.

Description of hatchlings: Naked at birth; sharp claws able to cling to textured surfaces; loud chattering when stimulated.

Development: Within a few days black pin feathers begin to appear; able to climb; begin to preen, even with no feathers.

8 to 10 days – feathers begin to unfurl

12 to 14 days – eyes open

3 weeks – fully feathered and “practice flapping”

4 weeks – flying

Nestling housing: Tall basket lined with cloth such as muslin. Unscented facial tissue in the bottom facilitates cleaning. External heat (85ºF.) with high humidity (60-70%) until feathered. Preferably a “hospital box” or incubator/brooder with automatic thermostat and indirect or filtered sunlight.

Natural diet: Flying insects and spiders

Substitute diet: Small mealworms drowned in a small amount of:

1 tbsp. Avimin liquid mineral supplement

¼ tsp. Plex-Sol C powdered vitamin supplement

8 oz. Distilled water

and soaked Purina HiPro dog meal dipped in a mixture of equal parts of full-strength Nutrical and plain, active-culture yogurt. The worms of HiPro should have a light sprinkling of Plus Yeast (brand) protein powder for essential amino-acids.

Feeding: Chimney swifts’ feeding responses can be triggered by tapping the basket, tapping their beaks or by a gust of wind (parent’s wings). They respond by bobbing their heads up and down, chattering loudly and gulping at anything close by. With a little practice, they can be taught to feed from above with a pair of tweezers. Each gapping bird should be given a small piece of Hi Pro (prepared as described in “Substitute Diet”) and as many mealworms as it desires every 30 minutes, 12 to 13 hours per day until its eyes are open; every hour until fully feathered; and every 2 hours until released. Because swifts feed on the wing and are unable to perch, they will never learn to self-feed in captivity.

One or two drops of distilled water from a curved irrigating syringe should follow each feeding. Place the drops on the beak: never put water into a bird’s throat. Chimney swifts become fond of these droplets, and may begin biting them from the tip of the syringe.

Caution: A swift’s nostrils are very far forward. Be careful not to get food in them. It will harden and be difficult to remove. Always clean the bird’s face with a damp tissue after each feeding.

Fledgling housing: Fledgling swifts require a large area for practice flying – at least 10’ x 15’ x 8’ tall. The larger the better. Any windows should be covered to prevent the birds from flying into them and becoming injured. Some textured substance should be provided on at least two opposite walls for the swifts to cling to. Fledglings must have access to this area during all daylight hours from the time they begin to fly until released.

Release: After a week of practice flying, and when the bird’s wings cross by an inch or more. Release should be considered. Chimney swifts are migratory and very communal. Always release them at least two weeks prior to normal migration time, and always into a known population.

Early on a calm morning, locate a group of chimney swifts and toss the bird skyward as they fly overhead. Usually if the new bird strays, some of the others will swoop down and show it the way.

Another method for release is to place the bird above the damper inside a chimney where other swifts are living. If all goes well, the bird will climb up to the others and join their colony. Check the chimney periodically to make sure the bird has not fallen back down or gotten into a bind.

Back-up feeding is not possible. However, if released where they are raised, some swifts do return for a few days.

Special Problems: If aspiration does occur when giving a bird water from a syringe or eye dropper, using distilled water will minimize the chance of causing pneumonia. Distilled water has no suspended particles to irritate the lungs.

Unlined baskets have caused problems of injured feet and broken primary feathers. These accidents can be avoided by lining the basket with a snag-free material such as muslin. An empty mealworm bag suits quite well.

Young swifts which are not given yogurt will not be able to properly digest their food, and may develop problems such as excess mucus in the mouth, off-color droppings, poor featherings and even death.

Injuries: Baby swifts are subject to several injuries simply because of the location of their nests. The sounds they make when begging for food are often mistaken for those of bats. Fires intended to drive them off cause poisoning from toxic fumes and burns. Internal injuries can sometimes be treated with an oral antibiotic such as Hetacin-K or Polyotic. Burns should be cleaned and treated with a topical antibiotic such as Furacin or Neosporin. Sometimes claws are ripped out when the youngsters are pulled from a chimney. An ointment such as Panalog will reduce swelling and stop infection. Be sure to consult your veterinarian before using any drug.

Injured adults must be force-fed about six drowned mealworms and a small piece of soaked HiPro every two hours during daylight. They also need the water supplement. While vitamin and mineral supplements are not as essential as in growing birds, Nutrical, yogurt and amino-acids should be given at least once each day. Until able to fly, the bird should be confined to a small cage with a rough log or brick for it to cling to. Because swifts lie flat, care must be taken to keep the vent clean and open. Practice flying in a large room is necessary before release.

Some chimney cleaning companies openly advertise bird removal, and will illegally remove nests and baby swifts from chimneys for a fee. This activity should be reported to the State of Alabama Department of Conservation.

CLIFF SWALLOWS:

Description: Light gray down, yellow mouth, flat head, short legs

Housing: Nestlings need a cup-type nest with artificial heat necessary until feathered.

Natural diet: Flying insects.

Substitute diet: Small, drowned mealworms or other soft insects; Purina HiPro dog meal.

Feeding: Cliff swallows open their mouths readily when hungry and may even learn to peck at live food. They should be fed 5-8 bites per feeding, every 1-2 hours. They must learn to feed on the wing prior to release. Once they recognize the food, they will fly down and take it from your hand or from tweezers.

Development: Feathered at approximately 10 days; begin to fly at approximately 3 weeks. Once flying, they should be urged to take food in flight.

Release: At 5-6 weeks, after the bird is used to taking food in flight. They are migratory, leaving in mid-September and returning in March. Cliff swallows nest in colonies. Look for mud nests attached to the underside of bridges or eaves or in rocky cliffs. Always release young cliff swallows in a nesting colony.

Back-up feeding: Not possible

COWBIRDS:

Raise like cardinals

CUCKOOS(Yellow-billed):

Raise like a mockingbird, without fruit. Natural diet consists mainly of black hairy caterpillars. They are migratory, leaving by mid-October and returning in early April.

DOVES AND PIGEONS:

Description: Sparse down, dark skin, long and rubbery beak.

Inca doves: gray down.

Mourning doves: Beige down.

Housing: Flat, ledge-like nest with external heat until feathered.

Natural diet: Nestlings are fed “pigeon’s milk”, a secretion rich in protein, fat and ash, and lacking sugar. Gradually small seeds and other solid food are regurgitated by the parent bird with the milk. Adults eat wild seeds and green food. Rarely do they eat insects.

Substitute diet: A successful formula can be made with powdered high-protein cereals (baby rice cereal, wheat germ, cream of wheat, oat meal, corn meal) or powdered chick starter mixed with whole milk in such proportions that the formula is of a slushy consistency. After the nestling reaches a week in age, small seeds and grit can be added in increasingly larger amounts to the formula. By four weeks, the bird should be eating completely on its own. Adults need a variety of greens, seeds and grain.

Feeding: Nestlings feed by sucking the milk from either parent’s crop. To simulate this, put the warmed formula in a vial or tube approximately the size of the parent bird’s beak and mouth. Hold the vial in you fist and allow the bird to poke its beak into the formula-filled vial. The bird should suck as much as it wants; refill the vial if necessary. Palpate the crop to see if it is becoming full. When the bird refuses more formula, it is full and then must be cleaned off. If the formula dries on the bird, it is like plaster and impossible to remove without causing considerable damage to the feathers and skin. At 2-3 weeks of age, begin leaving grit and small seeds in the bird’s cage, but continue with the formula until the bird is completely self feeding.

To force feed a young dove, draw the formula into an appropriate size tuberculin syringe, stick the syringe into the bird’s throat well beyond the air hole (windpipe opening) and slowly force the formula into the

Care of orphaned birds (page eight)

bird’s crop. Be very careful not to force-feed too much formula since the bird will choke on it.

Development: The bird should be flying well by 3 weeks, self-feeding by 4 weeks. As soon as it is self-feeding, human contact must be kept to a minimum or else the bird will become very tame and unreleaseable. It is very important to keep these birds with other members of their species.

Release: They are not migratory and can be released at any time of the year. They should be at least 6-7 weeks old and properly afraid of people before they are released. Be sure to release them among others of their species.

Back-up feeding: Be sure to leave enough grain or seed to last a few days.

FINCHES:

These birds feed by regurgitation. Raise like cardinals but with “mushier” food and plain, active-culture yogurt.

FLYCATCHERS AND KINGBIRDS:

Description: Downy, with orange-yellow mouth.

Housing: Cup-type nest with external heat until feathered.

Natural diet: Flying insects, crawling insects.

Substitute diet: Mealworms, insects, Purina HiPro dog meal

Feeding: They readily open their mouths. These birds must eventually learn to catch flying insects, but they will also peck at live food.

Development: Begin fledgling at 2 –2 ½ weeks. Should be flying well by 4 weeks. May begin to self-feed at 5 weeks.

Release: At 7-8 weeks, when tail feather is full length, bird is flying well and acting independent, and is fully self-feeding. Most flycatchers leave in September and return in April. There are important exceptions, so check with someone. Kingbirds must be released by the end of August. Kingbirds and scissor-tailed flycatchers are found around the city and in pastures. Other flycatchers are found in wooded areas.

Back-up feeding: Preferred.

GRACKLES:

See Jays, Grackles and Starlings

HERONS:

General: Herons are wading birds with long necks who subsist on fish, insects, crustaceans and amphibians found in shallow water. They breed by both fresh and salt water, and the nest of a Great Blue or Green Heron could be found in a tree, bush, cliff, or even on the ground. Adult herons bring food to the young in their crops and regurgitate the meal directly into the offspring’s beak.

Feeding: Young herons may need to be force-fed at first, but they are generally capable, once feathered, of fishing on their own. To force-feed: cut up 3 small frozen shad or medium minnows 5 times a day and place far back in the bird’s throat. Mealworms, nightcrawlers, and pieces of crayfish may be added to this. One to two drops of Avitron vitamins each morning should be given (drop directly on to the fish). As soon as possible, offer live targets in a pan of water: live minnows, crayfish, and even wiggling mealworms will catch their eye. Herons can adjust to eating frozen shad put in the water after they have learned to fish. This is less expensive and more convenient that live food, but it is best to offer both. A juvenile or injured adult who is self-feeding can be fed each morning and evening. A Green Heron needs 15-16 fish per day plus supplements (a crayfish for instance). The larger Great Blue Heron requires two dozen fish a day as a basic diet along with a few other offerings for variety. Keep their water clean.

Housing: Herons need to be housed in the largest possible caging with plenty of water. The very young can be raised in a 4 foot cage with a large pan of water, but a fully feathered juvenile heron needs flight room and a good sized tub of water. A fenced pond facility would be ideal. Herons like to hide-give them some greenery to feel secure behind.

Release: Great Blue Herons should be ready to go from 64-90 days, and Greens are independent at 4-5 weeks. If they are strong fliers, have a good weight, and can easily catch fish, release them early in the morning where there are more of their kind.

HUMMINGBIRDS:

Must be kept warm and fed every 20-3- minutes during daylight hours.

Feeding:

Nestling: 1-2 droplets of formula every 20 minutes (drip down a string into the bird’s mouth)

Adult: Put formula in a small (1 cc) tuberculin syringe (without the needle). Allow the bird to stick its beak into the small end of the syringe. If the bird is able to self-feed, leave a hummingbird feeder full of nectar (formula will sour) in its cage, and supplement with two syringes – full (1-2cc) of formula per day.

Substitute diet: Nectar – 1 part sugar to 4 parts water.

Formula- 2 cups water, ½ cup sugar, 20 small mealworms, 1 tbsp. Esbilac, 5 drops Avitron vitamins. Blend all ingredients together in a blender; pour into ice trays and freeze. Thaw one cube per day. Keep cube refrigerated, but allow it to warm to room temperature before feeding it to the bird. Never feed cold formula to a hummingbird.

Additional flowers and small insects, such as aphids, gnats, small spiders, or fruit flies, can be added as available.

Housing: Cup-type nest until flying. Once flying, line the inside of the cage with hose or nylon to prevent feather damage. A heating pad or clip-on light should be used to provide warmth. Small twigs must be available for use as perches. Also keep a hummingbird feeder inside the cage.

Release: Release the bird when it is self-feeding and flying well. These birds are migratory and usually leave by mid-September. There are important exceptions so be sure to check with someone. Always supply a feeder full of nectar as back-up food for hummingbirds. Remember, they are very territorial, so there must be plenty of available food in the form of flowering plants and small insects.

JAYS, GRACKLES AND STARLINGS:

Description: Red mouth, no gape flanges.

Jays – naked at birth

Grackles – sparse beige or brown down.

Starlings – dark gray with large yellow gape flanges.

Housing: Cup-type nest with external heat until feathered.

Natural diet: Insects, eggs, nuts, acorns, seeds, small rodents, small birds, amphibians (rarely).

Substitute diet: Mealworms and other insects, dog meal, wheat bread, nuts, apples and fruits, sunflower seeds, greens, alfalfa sprouts.

Nestlings: only insects and dog meal

Fledglings and older: a variety is required.

Feeding: Nestlings readily open their mouths.

Development: Eyes open within one week. Flying well by 3 weeks. Beginning to self-feed at 4 weeks.

Release: When tail feather is full-length and bird is self-feeding, flying well and acting independent, at approximately 7-8 weeks. They are not migratory. They should be released with others of their species.

KILLDEER AND QUAIL:

Quail and killdeer chicks must be kept in a brooder at a constant temperature. The first week, the temperature must be kept at 95º, and it can be dropped 5º each week thereafter until the chick gains adult temperature control ability at 4 weeks. Be sure that no drafts affect the temperature. You can make a brooder by placing a large heating pad (turned on to the highest setting) on the floor of a 1’ x 2’ aquarium. Place a clip-on lamp on one end with a 100-watt bulb in it, and tape a thermometer inside the aquarium to monitor the temperature. You will have to adjust the setting of the heating pad and the bulb wattage to provide the 95º temperature. On especially cool nights, you may need to change to a 150-watt bulb. Check the temperature frequently, at different times of the day and night. Provide a dark sleeping place for the chick; for example, a nest made of flannel. Cover the aquarium with a wire netting. Cover the heating pad with paper towels and also place a sheet of gravel paper in the brooder. Both should be changed daily.

During the first two days after hatching, the chick will not require much food but will soon be pecking at everything. Do not attempt to force-feed the chick during the first two days. Provide plenty of chick starter, bits of dried or fresh greens, alfalfa sprouts, tiny insects (live), hair-size mealworms, dirt and grit. The insects must be live to catch the attention of the chick. Add a variety of grains, seeds, and gravel or mineral mix, and place a shallow container of fresh water with chick starter sprinkled in it in the brooder. Pebbles should be put in the water container to prevent the chick from drowning. Show the chick how to eat by “pecking” at its food with long tweezers and occasionally picking up a piece of food and offering it to the chick. Always leave plenty of food and water in the brooder.

These birds are not secure when they are alone. They are easily frightened and will not eat if upset. It is always best to keep them with chicks of their size. Other ways to reassure a tiny chick is to place a mirror in the brooder and to whistle to the bird when you are near.

Release the bird when it is adult size and is able to fly well. Be sure to release it with others of its species. Natural habitat includes waterways, pastures, meadows, feed lots and fence rows. They are not migratory.

MEADOWLARKS, EASTERN:

Raise as mockingbirds, without fruit. They are not migratory.

MOCKINGBIRDS AND LOGGERHEAD SHRIKES:

Description: Mockingbird – gray down; bright yellow mouth and gape flanges

Shrike – white down; orange skin; orange-yellow mouth

Housing: Cup-type nest with external heat until feathered.

Natural diet: Mockingbird – insects, berries

Shrike – insects, small rodents and birds

Substitute diet: Purina HiPro dog meal, mealworms and other insects, such as moths and crickets. Fruit or berries only after self-feeding. NOTE: Mockingbirds are prone to rickets and must receive the proper amount of calcium and phosphorus. A 60% to 40% mealworm to dog meal diet works well. They should also be given ample opportunity to sun themselves.

Feeding: They readily open their mouths.

Development: Eyes open by 5 days; fledge at 2 weeks. Flying well by 3-4 weeks; self-feeding by 5 weeks.

Release: They should be independent by 6-7 weeks. They are not migratory but they are very territorial. Release them in an area where some but not many of the same species are found. Avoid pesticide-prone areas. Be sure to keep small birds away from shrikes.

Back-up feeding: Necessary

NIGHTHAWKS:

General: Nighthawks are entirely insectivorous and eat flying ants, flies, mosquitoes, and moths on the wing at night. They must all be hand-fed while in captivity, but they are easy to handle and the young readily learn to beg for food.

Feeding: Young nighthawks may be fed 10-15 mealworms five times a day and a few bites of soaked Purina HiPro with each meal. Especially young birds should have drowned mealworms only and smaller portions at each feeding. A drop of vitamins can be added daily. It is also possible to alternate between feedings of mealworms and dog show. Injured adults should have 50 mealworms a day and two feedings of dog chow. These are only estimates, and it is important to watch each bird’s weight and insure that it is maintained. Encourage the young to fly at your fingers for their food – it is good practice and exercise for them. Nighthawks can be fed very lean beef dipped in milk, but this should only be given for a short period of time until you can provide the preferred diet.

Housing: Young nighthawks need a shallow dish of water, a log to sit on and lots of exercise. If they cannot be in an aviary, give them two or three good flying practices a day. Their inactivity in a cage is not a sign of poor health or fear – they display energy only in flight. Most adult nighthawks in captivity have broken wings or head injuries. Keep them quiet and well-fed while mending, but let them exercise when ready to regain their full flying strength before release.

Release: When nighthawks have a good body weight and can fly effortlessly release them at dusk in an area populated with their own species. Be sure they are released before their migration time.

PURPLE MARTINS:

Description: Downy; yellow mouth; flat head and short legs.

Housing: Platform-type nest with external heat until feathered.

Natural diet: Flying insects.

Substitute diet: Mealworms and other insects; Purina HiPro dog meal

Feeding: They readily open their mouths and may even peck at live food. They must learn to take food in flight.

Development: Flying by 4 weeks

Release: They can be released at 5-6 weeks near an established purple martin colony. Be sure that they can catch flying insects. They are migratory and leave by mid-August, returning in mid-January.

Back-up feeding: Not possible

PIGEONS:

See Doves and Pigeons

QUAIL:

See Killdeer and Quail

SPARROWS:

Description: Naked at birth; pink mouth with yellow gape flanges

Housing: Cup-type nest; external heat necessary until feathered.

Natural diet: Insects, seeds.

Substitute diet:

Nestlings: insects, mealworms, Purina HiPro dog meal (a variety is necessary), green food (sprouts, lettuce)

Fledglings: insects, mealworms, grain, seeds, green food

Feeding: They readily open their mouths

Development: Eyes open within a week; feathered by 10 days; flying well by 2-3 weeks.

Release: By 6-7 weeks, they should be self-feeding, flying well and acting independent. They are not migratory and should be released where others of the same species are known to live.

Back-up feeding: Necessary.

STARLINGS:

See Jays, Grackles and Starlings

SWALLOWS:

See Cliff Swallows

TITMICE:

Raise like wrens until self-feeding, then add greens and seeds to the diet.

WOODPECKERS:

Feeding: In the wild, woodpeckers eat a large variety of insects, acorns and fruits. More information is needed on this species, but this care sheet can give you a start.

Featherless woodpeckers need to be fed hourly; a few drowned mealworms and bites of soaked dog chow should form their basic diet. Give them a daily drop of vitamins and a variety of these suggestions to supplement the worm/dog chow meals:

1) small bits of soaked raisins

2) small amounts of flies and crickets

3) small pellets made of peanut butter and corn meal mixed together and soaked in water before feeding

Lengthen the time between feedings as the bird matures. When they are fully feathered, spread peanut butter on a vertical log and stick mealworms or other insects into it. Generally, the birds will enjoy finding their own insects, and peanut butter is a great favorite of this species. Woodpeckers have difficulty eating out of dishes and much prefer climbing up and down to find their meals. Offer them a variety of food in a variety of ways – creativity is needed to raise these interesting birds.

General: Woodpeckers need large cages with several logs and branches placed at different angles. Be cautious of their sharp beaks and tongues when working with adults or even juveniles. They are ready for an early morning release when they are self-feeding, well-feathered and strong in flight. Injured adults may need to be force-fed. When their injury is healed, release them – they are stubborn in captivity and may never feed on their own.

WRENS(CAROLINIA AND BEWICK’S):

Description of hatchlings: small, pink and naked with several strands of gray down on top of head. Yellow mouth and gape flanges and pointed beak.

Development: Eyes open and pin feathers develop within one week. Feathered by two weeks and flying by three weeks. Beginning to self-feed by four weeks.

Nestling housing: Berry basket lined with unscented facial tissue. External heat (88º) with high humidity (60-70%) until feathered. Preferably a “hospital box” or incubator/brooder with automatic thermostat and a light.

Natural diet: Spiders, flying insects, ants, etc.

Natural habitat: Woodlands with thick underbrush, rotting wood and a good water source nearby.

Substitute diet: Small mealworms drowned in a small amount of:

1 Tbsp. Avimin liquid mineral supplement

¼ tsp. Plex-Sol C powdered vitamin supplement

8 oz. distilled water

and soaked Purina HiPro dog meal dipped in a mixture of equal parts Nutrical and plain, active-culture yogurt. The worms or Hi Pro should have a light sprinkling of Plus Yeast (brand) protein powder for essential amino-acids.

Feeding: Mouths open readily but close quickly. Each gaping bird should be fed at least one mealworm and a small piece of HiPro (prepared as described above) every 30 minutes from sunrise until 9:00-10:00 PM (25-30 feedings per day) until feathered and picking up live mealworms on their own, then every hour until completely self-feeding. One or two drops of distilled water from a curved-tip syringe should follow each feeding. Place the drops on the beak; never put water into a bird’s throat.

Fledgling housing: A 2’ x 2’ x 4’ wire cage (1/2” x 1” mesh or smaller) with a paper-lined floor is minimum. Rough and smooth perches, a potted plant and a “brush pile” of small branches with the leaves still attached will help to satisfy the wrens’ active and inquisitive nature. While Carolina wrens are fond of splashing around in a shallow dish of water, Bewick’s wrens are partial to dust baths in fine, loose soil. Both water and soil should be provided, as well as live food and some full sun for basking.

Release: Can be released at 7-8 weeks when they no longer wish to be hand-fed. Wrens are highly territorial, and should be released where some of the same species are known to reside, but density is low.

Back-up feeding: Wrens must have back-up feeding for as long as two weeks or more in the form of meal worms and small pieces of soaked HiPro.

Special problems: A nestling wren’s fecal sac is very large and dark brown in color. If yogurt is not added to the diet, the color will begin to lighten to the same color as HiPro. This seems to indicate that the food is not being digested, and the bird may die within 24 hours.

Wrens have a very high metabolism, and must be fed more often than some other species. They are also highly prone to dehydration, and must have a constant water supplement. Even if a nestling skips a feeding (not uncommon), it should still be given a drop or two of distilled water.